Khensani Mohlatlole (she/her) is a writer and content creator living in the beautiful city of Johannesburg. Her major interests include sustainability, circular design, and fashion history – with an emphasis on African knowledge systems and practices.
Khensani is also an incredibly talented fashion designer who has been commended for bringing African culture to the world of cosplaying, while simultaneously creating a large focus around sustainability in the fashion industry and its effects on the environment.
Cosplaying in South Africa has grown enormously since it was first brought into the mainstream at rAge Expo in 2006, but as most costumes are designed around popular Western characters (not exclusively!) the induction of bigger African themes is a very welcome progression. The addition of the eco-conscious themes even more so.
Fashion as Education
Most of Khensani’s projects are based on what she can learn, such as new techniques and pattern shapes. At other times, she wants to learn more about a certain culture at a period in time, or a type of subculture or people and their beliefs and attitudes.
“I’m generally drawn to clothing of royalty across the world and I’m trying to find more information about different African dress over time, since the major type of fashion history is Euro-American,” she says.
From hair to clothing, Khensani often showcases styles for black women in history.
“I have a deep appreciation for the people who’ve come before me. I’m incredibly aware that all the freedoms and privileges I enjoy today are the direct result of the direct and indirect ways my ancestors have fought against imperialism and colonialism. Dress history offers the chance to celebrate and connect with them in a way you’re not always going to be able to from a history book,” she says.
A Love of the Past
“History influences and determines my interest in fashion. Historical fashion not only gives us an insight into how people in the past looked but we can get an intimate understanding of their beliefs, desires, wants and behaviours through these garments,” says Khensani.
Fabric and material had a greater value and rarity in a time before machines, so the majority of dressmakers took the utmost care to use it in the most economical way, while also ensuring that it was made to last. There was also a greater focus on handcrafts like embroidery, crochet, and lacemaking, which is slowly being lost in the modern age of advanced technologies.
While Khensani acknowledges the importance of the past, for her it is about practicality and inspiration.
“I’m not super obsessed with historical accuracy. I have a lot of respect for people who can sew ball gowns entirely by hand or who will hand finish seams instead of overlocking them, but that’s just not for me. I care about achieving the right silhouettes and echoing the vibe of a historical period, but I always imagine that if a Victorian seamstress had to time travel and see my opting to whip stitch metres of seams instead of just using a machine, she’d have a heart attack.”
Sustainability in Fashion
“Sustainable fashion concerns ensuring we operate within fashion in a way that is just and fair to people and the planet. This can be environmental, such as concerns over water pollution or CO2 emissions; it can be social, like ensuring garment factory workers earn fair wages; and it can be cultural, through the preservation of traditional techniques and crafts. It’s about making sure we produce things in the best way – making quality clothing that lasts, as well as ensuring that we consume things in the best way too,” says Khensani.
Khensani laments the amount of clothing and textile waste in the world, explaining that it disproportionately affects people in the global south.
“I do my best to not contribute any further to that. I make sure to plan my projects well enough to minimise as much water as possible and make sure I’m making things that can have multiple applications beyond a single look. I try to repurpose old clothes where I can, even adapting previous things I’ve made as well as keeping all of my scraps for smaller projects like bags or hair accessories or turning them into filling for pillows and body padding.”
So, What’s Next for Khensani?
“I have so many different things I want to explore and need to fine tune the list. I’m thinking about Ethiopian embroidery, Nigerian beadwork, making a xibelani, perhaps a Little Mermaid cosplay, and so much more.”
Are You Ready for rAge?
rAge, the Really Awesome Gaming Expo, takes place from December 8th to 10th at the Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, and is the perfect setting for any new cosplayers to take up the stage for the first time. You can find out more about the Cosplay Competitions here.
You may just see Khensani as the Little Mermaid, teaching you not to waste water.
Event Details:
Dates: December 8 – 10, 2023
Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg, South Africa
For more information and ticket bookings, visit www.rageexpo.co.za.
